USVI

After checking out of the British Virgin Islands (BVI) at the west end of Tortola, Motivator made the short hop (9 NM) over to Coral Harbor on the east end of St. John.  There is no US Customs station in Coral Bay, but we were able to check in using the Small Vessel Reporting system (SVR).  I will go into deeper detail about the US’s SVR system in a subsequent posting.

Of course, our first stop after ensuring our anchor was secure was Skinny Legs Bar & Grill.  After the “vacation” pricing in the BVIs, Skinny Legs was a welcome change.  Two-thirds of St. John is National Park and the remaining third seems to have become the home of US citizens seeking an alternate lifestyle.

Although I am usually the only guy over fifty without a ponytail, we enjoy the laissez-faire atmosphere of the small enclave.  Unfortunately, that attitude extends into the anchorage which is cluttered with derelict boats and squatters attached to “private” moorings that leave little room for the occasional transit boat.

After lunch we returned to find that the small fenders we had anchored a good distance behind was actually the “private” mooring for a rather large and dilapidated excursion boat.  Although the captain was courteous, he wanted us to move as much as we wanted out of there.  He started his engine and moved aside on the “private” mooring so that we could pull Motivator’s anchor up. 

Our initial plan after being evicted from Coral Harbor was to scoot over to the west side of the island and into Cruz Bay where we had been before.  However, as we rounded Rams Head on the southeast corner of the island, we spotted an available mooring in Salt Pond Bay.  A quick check of our guidebook ensured it was a National Park Service mooring (see; archived posting, Golden Age Card, March 11, 2013), so we grabbed it.

Sunset from Salt Pond Bay

We found Salt Pond to be lovely.  The well protected little cove with deep water was very quiet.  So, we splurged and stayed two nights paying the park service $7.50 per night for the mooring.

Small visitor behind Motivator

The shore was too rocky for our dinghy, so we swam from the back of Motivator to shore to do a little hiking.  The rocks pictured above would rattle as the surf receded. 

Cruise ship pulling into Charlotte Amalie ahead of Motivator

After enough communing with nature, we left St. John for St. Thomas and the port at Charlotte Amalie.  It is definitely a cruise ship town, but it still retains a certain charm that manages to escape all of the jewelry stores and T-shirt shops.

The Amber Waterfall

Pollie had been waiting all year to visit the amber museum once again, and was very disappointed to find out that it had closed and the collection had been shipped to Germany.  Oh well, she did manage to find a couple of pieces in one of the many gift shops.  

Pirates make good neighbors

When we visit Charlotte Amalie, we like to anchor near the pirate ships’ moorings.  We find that after a hard day of pirating and taking the cruise ship passengers on adventures, the pirates return to shore and the pirate boats are then quiet neighbors.

During the day, after some hurried preparation, the pirates rush off to indoctrinate another load of sun burnt want-a-be pirates.

Our entertainment was more sedate.  We went to the local supermarket for provisions and to Hooters for Internet access.

View from a “dollar safari” at another “dollar safari”

Like many of the islands, St. Thomas has a network of independent busses.  Here they use ¾ ton trucks with five rows of seats mounted where the bed should be.  Driving on the left with left hand drive vehicles allows the curb side to be open for easy ingress/egress and the driver is on the correct side to collect your dollar.

Bus selfie

Evidently there is an official bus system, but like any many places the public system is not reliable.  The “dollar safari” seems to have taken over.  Washington, DC, please take note.

American Yacht Harbor

We rode the “dollar safari” out to Red Hook at the east end of the island.  Approximately 16 years previously we had sat in the same booth using walkie-talkies to direct the cleaning of the charter boat by our son and his cousin.  They had been less than congenial crew mates on our charter so we had them clean the Island Packet sailboat upon return.  We laughed as they could not figure out where we were watching from.

Unfortunately in Charlotte Amalie we had to say goodbye to our friends Jeff and Izzy on our sister ship the Izzy R.  They have been our friends and sometimes travel companions for almost three years.  As we head north back to the states, they have elected to continue cruising the Caribbean.  Fair seas and cheap diesel.

Grenada Bus System

Grenada has an extensive road system, but the roads are narrow, winding, and the island is extremely hilly.

At first we relied on our fold-up bicycles, but we found the hills a little challenging for the bicycles and we couldn’t get far before one of the locals stopped us to ask about the bikes.

Also, we found the traffic to be a little daunting.

And, you drive on the left side of the road with frequent roundy rounds instead of traffic signals.

So then we found the Grenada Bus system.  We can get most of the places we need to go for $2.50 EC ($0.94 U.S. Dollar).

Courtesy of Grenada Board of Tourism

Fortunately or unfortunately, depending how you look at it, the Grenada Bus System has been upgraded to mini-vans retiring the colorful buses of yesteryear.

Main Bus Terminal in St George’s

The buses operate out of the main bus terminal and their routes are identified by a number in the upper right corner of the windshield.   Legally, the buses are only supposed to pick you up and drop you off at designated places, but we have found that to be universally ignored.  We have never hailed a bus because they hail you by shouting or honking or both, and we have never waited more than two or three minutes for a bus.  If you want a stop before a designated place, simply knock on the roof.

Unlike the colorful trucks of yesteryears, the Mini-vans are a little harder to identify because they are smaller and many don't have signs indicating final destinations.  These mini-vans, or mini-buses don't have a uniform color and don't run on a specific timetable, but you can recognize them by their number plates.  Privately owned buses have names and/or slogans, such as "White Invasion" or "Too much ah dem."

Many of the taxies are also mini-vans, but they do not have the number on the windshield, or a conductor.   The conductor is a young man that rides next to the sliding door, operates the door, take your money, and yells from the van soliciting riders.  It is also his job to ensure 20 passengers fit into a 14 passenger van.

We discovered the distinction between a bus and a taxi when a taxi stopped for us and then a bus pulled up behind and the conductor jumped out and admonished the taxi driver for trying to deceive us and steal his business.  Unlike in the states, the bus drivers and conductors in Grenada are highly incentivized. 

Shademan

For special events, i.e., cooking class, we arrange for a private bus.  Above Shademan  is taking our $10 EC ($3.75 U.S. dollars) for a ride to a marina at the south end of the island that is not serviced by the bus system.

I am applying for the job as Shademan’s conductor.

The U.S. could learn a lot from the Grenadian bus system.