Les Saintes to St. Kitts

First leg: Les Saintes to Deshaies

After waiting for a suitable weather window in Les Saintes, we decided to do a big hop to St. Kitts.  On a previous trip we had spent some time in Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe’s yacht haven, but were not inclined to do a repeat.  The island(s) of Guadeloupe is shaped like a butterfly, with Pointe-a-Pitre “at its ass,” according to one guidebook author.  I somewhat agree.  Our first leg was the 32 NM trip mainly in the lee of Guadeloupe to Deshaies where we anchored for the night.

Guadeloupe to St. Kitts

Using the narrow weather window provided, our second leg was to St. Kitts 80 NM away.  Previously we had visited Antigua (see: archived posting, Tots to the Queen, May 28, 2013 ).  While we enjoyed the island, we felt that we had seen most of the sites because on previous visits we found that we were weathered in for extended periods.  Besides, with the prevailing wind and waves out of the east or northeast during the winter, visiting Antigua feels like fighting to go east to eventually go west.  By heading to St. Kitts we had comfortable following seas.

2 NM Maritime Exclusion Zone

We had hoped to visit Montserrat on our trip north, but it was not in the cards for us.  In 1995 and again in 1997 eruptions from the Soufriere Hills volcano led to the exodus of nearly two thirds of the population.  In 2003 the dome collapsed and some of the population returned as restrictions were relaxed.  However, today there is a 2 NM maritime exclusion zone around the south side of the island and eruptions spewing steam and ash still occur.

Montserrat, not looking too inviting

The eruptions have destroyed the capital, Plymouth, and filled in the original harbor.  Visiting yachts now must anchor at the northwest end of the island which affords little protection from a north swell.  When I called to inquire about the possibility of a mooring, the harbor master said that due to the sea state it had been several days since he had be able to launch his boat.  We decided to give Montserrat a pass.

Carnival Ribbon Dancers

This makes our third visit to St. Kitts, and we always find it to be fun although the marina is not what one would call world class (see: archived postings Gibraltar of the Caribbean, dated Feb. 25, 2015; Cruisers vs. Cruisers, dated Feb 15, 2013; and Leeward Islands, dated Feb. 11, 2013).  St. Kitts was in the middle of their Carnival when we arrived (see: archived posting, Amplified Music, dated Aug. 4, 2013).  The New Year’s fireworks were quite impressive.

View from Twist, our favorite restaurant

The biggest downside to St. Kitts is Internet access.  The Port Zante Marina provides free WiFi, but when the cruise ships dock at Port Zante their multiple WiFi signals destroys the marina’s weak signal.

This posting completed at Rituals, our morning coffee shop.

Leeward Islands

After enjoying watching the large yachts in Falmouth Harbour, Antigua it was time to move on.

We knew we were going to miss some of the dinning opportunities around Falmouth and English Harbour.

While in Falmouth we took care of some much needed bottom cleaning and zinc replacement.

Morris Bay, Antigua

But it was not all work; we did get in some R&R. 

 Our sister ship, the Izzy R arriving Jolly Harbour

To prepare to leave, we staged on the west side of Antigua at Jolly Harbour.  There we met our friends on the Izzy R and watched the Super Bowl together.

Montserrat

From Antigua you have a choice of going north directly to St. Barts or Sint Maarten & St. Martin, or going east to Nevis and St. Christopher (St. Kitts).

Pinney’s Beach moorings

We chose to go east and made our first stop at Nevis.  The small island did not have much to offer, and their customs official’s interpretation of the rules prompted us to move on after spending only one night.

White House Bay, St. Kitts

Our next stop was much more enjoyable.  With the clearance from Nevis, we were allowed to visit the southern anchorages on St. Kitts for 7 days before checking in, but staying more than 24 hours in Nevis required a second visit to their customs office (???).

Our quiet anchorage in White House Bay was occasionally interrupted by dive boats delivering very white tourists to one of the many snorkeling sites around St. Kitts.

If it was good enough for the tourists, it was good enough for us.  Besides, we could access it for the back of our boat.

Gar

There were several varieties of fish, but it was not one of the better dive sites we have found.

Carambola Beach Club

This was the happening place on the beach, and they had a nice dinghy dock for us.

Star Clipper

The next day, Carambola was not as happening after the ship providing most of the customers left.

But, on down the beach we found a Jamaican place with killer smoothies and jerk chicken.

After two nights, we moved to a marina at the port in Basseterre, St. Kitts/Nevis’s capital.  When the cruise ships are in, this is a bustling place.  Once they are gone, the area known as Port Zante becomes a ghost town.  Basseterre is quite charming as they have made an effort to preserve the handsome old buildings including The Circus modeled after Piccadilly in London. 

Can You Say: Mega-Yacht..?

We rolled into Falmouth Harbour, Antigua in time for the Antigua Superyacht Challenge.  By “rolled in” I mean the crossing from Guadeloupe was rather sporty.

Nelson’s Boatyard (English Harbour) in the foreground, Antigua Yacht Club center, and Falmouth Marina to the right.

We manage to get a front row seat by grabbing a mooring inside Falmouth Harbour.

By front row seat, I do not mean for the races that were held outside the harbor in very rough conditions, but inside where we could watch the yachts come and go.

Our closest mega-yacht neighbor is the Maltese Falcon is a ship-rigged sailing luxury yacht, commissioned and formerly owned by American venture capitalist Tom Perkins.  It is one of the largest privately owned sailing yachts in the world at 289 ft. The yacht was sold in 2009 reportedly because the owner wanted a larger yacht.  The ship has fifteen square sails (five per mast), stored inside three free-standing carbon fiber mast; they can fully unfurl into tracks along the yards in six minutes. 

The sailing yachts competing are at least 80 ft long and require a lot of crew, a.k.a., “rail meat.”

We counted 18 crew members on one yacht, but this one may have more.

203’ ATHOS

All week long, yachts have arrived and departed.

Often it is hard to guess the size of these yachts until you use the crew to understand the scale.

Besides the mega-yachts, there are some very interesting smaller yachts.  This one is certainly an investment in varnish.

But, not to worry, there seems to be many capable hands on Antigua; for a price.

 220’ Garcon

There are also plenty of motor yachts hanging around Antigua.  This one we did not find to be particularly handsome.

But, the helicopter on the fantail was a nice touch.

138’ Bystander

We did think that Bystander was a very handsome motor yacht and a consideration if we ever decide to upgrade from Motivator.  However, we did count 6 crew members when she came in and their salaries would probably put a dent in our cruising budget. 

Unfortunately, someone always has a bigger yacht.  And, it showed up in Antigua to steal the thunder.

394’ M/Y “A”

"A" was designed by Philippe Starck and was commissioned in November 2004, and delivered in 2008 at a rumored cost of $300 million. 

“A” is named for the first initial of its owners, Andrey and Aleksandra Melnichenko.  Andrey Melnichenko is a Russian businessman and billionaire, and wife, Aleksandra, is a former Serbian model and pop singer.

The ship’s styling has evoked comparisons with submarines and stealth warships such as the Zumwalt class of stealth destroyers designed for the US Navy.  

Reportedly, the upper deck contains the owner’s cabin that boasts a revolving bed.

 Money can't buy you happiness, but it can buy you a yacht big enough to pull up right alongside it.

David Lee Roth 

“Your Papers, Please”

After the Bahamas, almost every island is a sovereign nation with its own policies on customs and immigration.  At each port of entry it is incumbent on the ship’s master to check-in and if required, check-out.  Among cruisers there is much discussion as to procedures, costs, and treatment by the various officials.  As a U.S. citizen, we cannot be too critical of the treatment we receive because one must remain cognizant of the treatment of foreign travelers within the U.S.

Below is a chart I put together concerning our experience with the different countries.   The “Cost Per Day” calculation is not a clean comparison between the various island nations, but it does provide an approximation.

 

Country	Cost (USD)	Time Period	Cost Per Day		Comments
United States	$27.50 + $13.00 Shipping	1 - year		$0.12	For U.S. citizens customs sticker + Local Boater Option for each crew member.  Call an 800 number when returning to U.S.
Bahamas	$300.00	Up to 180 days		$1.67	Time issued seems to vary by check-in location and official.  In Nassau, reportedly, officials will board your boat.  Cruising permit includes fishing license.
Turks & Caicos	$50 check-in $50 check-out Total = $100	7 days		$14.29 (our cost $16.43 w/OT)	There is a $15 overtime charge for check-in/check-out on weekends.  A 90 day cruising permit is $300.   Customs official visited marina.
Dominican Republic	$43 boat fee + $10 per person check-in, $20 Marine Guerra (Coast Guard) fee each check out. Total = $103	30 day tourist card		$3.44	Every guidebook reported officials asking for “tips” at harbor entries, i.e., Luperon, Puerto Plata anchorages.  The marinas (Ocean World & Puerto Bahia) control the bribes and assist with clearance.  The coast guard, along with M-2 (Intelligence) and Department of Drugs may board and inspect on arrival and departure.
Puerto Rico	$27.50 + $13.00 Shipping	1-year		$0.12	For U.S. citizens customs sticker + Local Boater Option for each crew member.  Call 800 number after arrival.
St. Croix, USVI	$27.50 + $13.00 Shipping	1-year		$0.12	For U.S. citizens customs sticker + Local Boater Option for each crew member.  Called 340-773-1011 after arrival, but was told the PR check-in sufficed.  We were advised to visit customs and get a departure clearance for BVI.
St. Martin	$7 anchoring fee	Doesn’t appear to be a time limit		$0.00	You can check in on either the French or Dutch side.  The Dutch side has fees based on the size of vessel ($15 per week for up to 65’).  Seems the Dutch are trying to limit the number of long term vessels.  Check in and out at marina office at computer kiosk then employee will stamp paperwork (the French check in and out procedure).   Didn’t ask for previous departure clearance.
St. Barth’s	Anchoring fee, but we used a mooring	Doesn’t appear to be a time limit		Not Sure	French procedure in marina office.  There may be a negligible departure fee, but our bill was complicated by language difficulties.
Antigua	$16 Port entry fee, $10 fee for two persons,  $26 departure fee: Total $52	Indeterminate time limit, but we were there 10 days		$5.20	Use www.eSeaClear.com to file entrance and departure information (the British procedure).  Then visit customs, immigrations and port authority at locations specified in cruising guide.  Office located at Nelson’s Dockyard was very accommodating.  Officials checked previous departure clearance.
Terre-de-Haute	None	Indeterminate		$0.00	The French procedure in internet café (second floor, right of ferry dock), Les Saintes Multiservices (LSM).  Pay for mooring at same location.
St. Pierre, Martinique	None	6 months, then import duty		$0.00	The French procedure at visitors’ center, however the computer was broken.
Fort De-France, Martinique	None	6 months, then import duty		$0.00	The French procedure at Sea Services Marine Chandlery.
Grande Anse D’Arlet, Martinique	None	6 months, then import duty		$0.00	The French procedure at Le P’Ti Bateau restaurant, however restaurant hours vary.
St. Lucia	15 EC ($5.55) Entry Fee; 40 EC ($15.00) Port Fees; 25 EC ($9.50) Cruising Permit	42 days		$0.72	Used www.eSeaClear.com for entry then reported to an office at Rodney Bay Marina.  Must have departure clearance from previous country.  The 25 EC cruising permit is only required if making intermediate stops.  Due to weather we required an extra day on departure clearance and there was no charge.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines	35 EC ($13) per person entry fee + .15 EC document fee (3). Total $26	30 days		$0.86	Used www.eSeaClear.com then checked in at Bequia customs office.  Must have previous departure clearance.  Was asked for proof that that I control the LLC the boat is registered under.
Grenada	16.20 EC ($6.00)  Port Charges; 75 EC ($28) Cruising Permit	30 days		$1.14	Customs and immigration onsite at Port Louis Marina.  Requested previous country’s departure clearance.

From the chart, note that on a cost per day basis the Turks & Caicos are the most expensive to visit.  This fact was not lost on the marina management at Southside Marina in Caicos.  They stated that they were working with government officials to ease the fees.  At $300.00 per boat ($150.00 below 35’), the Bahamas extracts the most upfront money from cruisers, and that causes some grumbling.  But, 300 bucks allows you to visit over 500 islands and you are pretty much left alone by authorities after you pay the fee.

Samana Bay, Dominican Republic

The most angst over customs and immigration is felt by cruisers wishing to visit the Dominican Republic.   Guidebooks, cruiser web sites, and other cruisers all warn about pilfering officials that come on your boat, lift items during the “inspection” and demand bribes.  This dissuaded us from visiting Luperon, instead opting for marinas that somewhat monitor the officials.  Additionally, the DR does not understand the concept of cruising and anchoring in quiet coves.  Their expectation is that you check-in and out at every stop including the ones without customs and immigration facilities.  Even with marina staff monitoring the situation, we felt somewhat intimidated by the number of officials visiting our boat and the seemingly arbitrary fee structure.

For ease of completing the requested forms, the www.eSeaClear.com system offered at British Virgin Islands (we did not visit this trip), Antigua, St. Lucia, and St. Vincent and the Grenadines was the best.  The cruiser goes on line, completes the form and the writes down the confirmation number provided.  When you visit the customs and immigration office they use the number to print and process the forms.  However, not all of the islands advertised are fully on board with the system.  At Union Island the official required me to sit in his sweaty little office and complete a form using carbon paper.   

Fort De-France

The French Islands have it figured out.  Mom and pop cruiser are not a threat.  Extracting pitiful little fees from cruisers does not pay the salaries of the officials waiting around.  Put a computer kiosk at a local business that cruisers will visit anyway and ask them to sign themselves in and out.  My guess is that the compliance rate is high and that cruisers use the money they would have spent on fees to buy a croissant and latte.  In St. Lucia where I found 8 customs officials watching a soccer game, I walked away muttering, “fraud, waste and abuse, fraud, waste and abuse.” 

As mentioned above, while the U.S. system is not stellar for non-U.S. cruisers, it is great for the U.S. flag vessels and U.S. citizens.  U.S. citizens can complete the one time Local Boater Option procedure.  This requires that you complete a form on line than present yourself to a U.S. Customs Office for verification of your passport along with some other form of picture I.D.  They then issue you a LBO number you use along with your sticker number when you call in.  The sticker is issued once a year and is affixed to the boat.  Unfortunately, the sticker must be mailed which can be a challenge for the cruiser.  Even with those constraints, the LBO and U.S. Customs sticker is the way to go when checking-in to the U.S. or its territories – don’t leave home without it.