MOTIVATOR: Los Haitises National Park

On day two, having survived our trip to Paraiso Cano Hondo, we were ready to explore more of San Lorenzo Bay and Los Haitises National Park. Evidently, the cruise ships had departed Samana because fighting excursion boats for dock space was much easier.

We only had one hiccup. The domino playing park wardens wanted $100 pesos ($2.50 USD) each for entry and we could only scrounge up $100 pesos plus pocket shrapnel between us. One of the domino players pointed at Motivator and then shook his head at the fact we had no money.

Finally they relented and let us go explore the caves with the promise we would return later with $60 pesos ($1.50 USD). The caves were large and relatively clean. For the protection of the cruise ship passenger clientele steps and wooden walkways have been built.

Certain areas were blocked off to ensure they did not lose any curious tourists.

Many of the rock formations were quite interesting, but the experience was rather tame compared to some of the other nature visits we have survived in the Bahamas and the Caribbean.

About the time we had absorbed all the rock formations fully, an excursion boat full of tourists arrived and we headed for the exit.

Other cruisers back in Puerto Bahia had told us that there was a second dinghy dock with a cave that the “normal” tourists do not see. Our only directions were to look for a wide spot between the cliffs somewhere west of the main dock and follow the stream until you see a dinghy dock.

As you venture back in among the cliffs and mangroves it begins feeling like a medieval forest. At any point you expect to see a pterodactyl fly by. I had Pollie watching for Nile crocodiles

(Don’t laugh, one has recently been spotted in the Florida Everglades). The depths were good (4 to 5’ range), so we keep going.

Finally around the last shallow bend, the dock! From a distance it did not look like much, but on closer examination it was a nice, sturdy concrete dinghy dock.

We have utilized much worse. With our previous boat, Serenity, we tied to a dock only to find a sign that said the dock was condemned.

For an unmaintained jungle trail, this one was not bad.

The foliage was incredible. Seeds that slowly open seem to be a staple of the Caribbean.

Some trees were larger than others.

We first saw a tree like this in Grenada. They called it a “monkey tree.” Evidently, even monkeys do not like climbing this tree with spikes at the end of the nodules.

Then we found the crevice between the rocks. Too bad the cruise ship people do not get to see this.

The rock formations were incredible. Pollie says this is called a “drapery.”

Maybe it’s a good thing the tour guides do not take the “normal” tourists to this cave. The exit is a little tight.

Outside we discovered that we had just visited Grey Owl Cave. Pollie told me that the owl was asleep, that is why we did not see him.

Our dinghy was still at the dock when we returned.

The next day we returned to the lodge for breakfast and an opportunity to change dollars into pesos so we could pay the domino players.

Motivator is the white speck in the bay

Frank Virgintino in A Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic, say the anchorage in San Lorenzo Bay “…rates with the best in the Caribbean, if not the world.” I would have to agree.

San Lorenzo is a well-protected bay within the protected waters of Samana Bay, Dominican Republic. The sticky mud in the bay provides great holding for your anchor. The charting seems to be accurate, so finding your way in is easy. So why is Motivator the only boat in the anchorage?

Motivator’s route between Puerto Bahia Marina and San Lorenzo Bay

The government of Dominican Republic does not make it easy for cruisers to visit any of the island’s beautiful anchorages. You are required to check in with Customs, Immigration, DR Navy, and Drug Enforcement at every stop, and only stop at places where officials are present. For San Lorenzo, the officials at Puerto Bahia Marina make an exception. After checking in at Puerto Bahia, you may ask permission to visit San Lorenzo for a few nights, but you must return to Puerto Bahia for departure papers.

Visiting Los Haitises National Park and Paraiso Cano Hondo is worth the effort, even if you are the only private boat in the anchorage for three nights. Motivator’s crew is not normally comfortable being that isolated, but we saw no security concerns. In the evening there was an occasional small fishing boat and we did see a bonfire on the beach, but no one approached us. Besides, the officials at Puerto Bahia were expecting us back so they can collect $20 for the despacho.

Dinghy and excursion boat dock to the far right

Our first stop was at the park “headquarters,” a colorful building with several gentlemen playing dominoes on the porch. Before they could collect our $3 entry fee, the excursion boats forced us to abandon the dock and move on, however one captain gave us directions to the “lodge.”

Cano Chiquito

To get to the Paraiso Cano Hondo, a restaurant and hotel in the middle of nowhere, you first find the small opening in the mangroves at the southwest corner of the bay.

Then you take the smaller channel to the right about 100 yards after leaving the bay.

After you think you are totally lost in the mangroves, you keep on going. We were lucky, just about the time we thought we should turn around, we met a large boat coming down the “river.”

Eventually, you will come to a small “marina” where you can tie your dinghy. Watch out for the sharp metal protrusions from the concrete.

We were prepared to walk, but a young man on this motorcycle insisted on giving us both a ride to the lodge.

For the return trip we chose to walk. It was only a little over a mile, but it seemed much longer with three to a motorcycle and a teenager driving.

Besides, by walking we were able to make friends along the way. The “marina” definitely seemed to be part of Paraiso Cono Hondo as well as the farm in between. There were cattle, horses, and a variety of chickens.

In one field it appeared to us non-biologists that they were starting a vineyard.

Construction on the main lodge began in 1996. It features two large dining rooms with bathrooms and changing areas below.

It appeared they were setup to handle large tour groups as well as their own guests.

A couple dropping in from what must have seemed like outer space for lunch or breakfast was not their normal business model. Twice lodge personnel attempted to sell us a boat ride to see the caves in the park.

By diverting the stream that runs through the property they were able to create several swimming pools that we were welcome to use.

We were told the bottom pool was the warmest and the upper pools were very “refreshing.”

With very little use of glass or doors there is a very pleasing flow from exterior to interior space. The flow of water elements throughout the interior emphasis this easy transition.

Concrete, local stone, and various local hardwoods were used for most of the construction.

Even the light fixtures are made from local materials. This one is made from a calabash gourd with hanging sea beans has twine wrapped around the wire. I am sure it is UL approved.