Motivator is the white speck in the bay
Frank Virgintino in A
Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic, say the anchorage in San Lorenzo
Bay “…rates with the best in the Caribbean, if not the world.” I would have to agree.
San Lorenzo is a well-protected bay within the protected
waters of Samana Bay, Dominican Republic.
The sticky mud in the bay provides great holding for your anchor. The charting seems to be accurate, so finding
your way in is easy. So why is Motivator the only boat in the
anchorage?
Motivator’s route between Puerto Bahia Marina and San Lorenzo Bay
The government of Dominican Republic does not make it easy
for cruisers to visit any of the island’s beautiful anchorages. You are required to check in with Customs,
Immigration, DR Navy, and Drug Enforcement at every stop, and only stop at
places where officials are present. For
San Lorenzo, the officials at Puerto Bahia Marina make an exception. After checking in at Puerto Bahia, you may
ask permission to visit San Lorenzo for a few nights, but you must return to
Puerto Bahia for departure papers.
Visiting Los Haitises National Park and Paraiso Cano Hondo
is worth the effort, even if you are the only private boat in the anchorage for
three nights. Motivator’s crew is not normally comfortable being that isolated,
but we saw no security concerns. In the
evening there was an occasional small fishing boat and we did see a bonfire on
the beach, but no one approached us.
Besides, the officials at Puerto Bahia were expecting us back so they
can collect $20 for the despacho.
Dinghy and excursion
boat dock to the far right
Our first stop was at the park “headquarters,” a colorful
building with several gentlemen playing dominoes on the porch. Before they could collect our $3 entry fee,
the excursion boats forced us to abandon the dock and move on, however one
captain gave us directions to the “lodge.”
Cano Chiquito
To get to the Paraiso
Cano Hondo, a restaurant and hotel in the middle of nowhere, you first find
the small opening in the mangroves at the southwest corner of the bay.
Then you take the smaller channel to the right about 100
yards after leaving the bay.
After you think you are totally lost in the mangroves, you
keep on going. We were lucky, just about
the time we thought we should turn around, we met a large boat coming down the “river.”
Eventually, you will come to a small “marina” where you can
tie your dinghy. Watch out for the sharp
metal protrusions from the concrete.
We were prepared to walk, but a young man on this motorcycle
insisted on giving us both a ride to the lodge.
For the return trip
we chose to walk. It was only a little
over a mile, but it seemed much longer with three to a motorcycle and a
teenager driving.
Besides, by walking
we were able to make friends along the way.
The “marina” definitely seemed to be part of Paraiso Cono Hondo as well as the farm in between. There were cattle, horses, and a variety of
chickens.
In one field it appeared to us non-biologists that they were
starting a vineyard.
Construction on the main lodge began in 1996. It features two large dining rooms with
bathrooms and changing areas below.
It appeared they were setup to handle large tour groups as
well as their own guests.
A couple dropping in from what must have seemed like outer space
for lunch or breakfast was not their normal business model. Twice lodge personnel attempted to sell us a
boat ride to see the caves in the park.
By diverting the stream that runs through the property they
were able to create several swimming pools that we were welcome to use.
We were told the bottom pool was the warmest and the upper
pools were very “refreshing.”
With very little use of glass or doors there is a very
pleasing flow from exterior to interior space.
The flow of water elements throughout the interior emphasis this easy
transition.
Concrete, local stone, and various local hardwoods were used
for most of the construction.
Even the light fixtures are made from local materials. This one is made from a calabash gourd with hanging
sea beans has twine wrapped around the wire.
I am sure it is UL approved.
Exterior lighting included terra cotta fixtures.
And others made from
recycled bottles. I told Pollie I would
start working on bottle procurement.
Everywhere you look
there are small details. This floor had
leaves pressed into the concrete and stained.
Behind the lodge are
numerous small seating areas dispersed among water elements. There were also the original hotel rooms
built with the lodge.
In 2007 the structures above the lodge were completed adding
substantially more guest rooms and the office and owner’s home to the left.
While in keeping with the original lodge, you can see a
certain refinement in the newer structure.
Like the original lodge, the guest house invites you to
relax and enjoy nature.
Pollie has requested we stay at Paraiso Cano Hondo for her 70th birthday.
To be continued…
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