USVI

After checking out of the British Virgin Islands (BVI) at the west end of Tortola, Motivator made the short hop (9 NM) over to Coral Harbor on the east end of St. John.  There is no US Customs station in Coral Bay, but we were able to check in using the Small Vessel Reporting system (SVR).  I will go into deeper detail about the US’s SVR system in a subsequent posting.

Of course, our first stop after ensuring our anchor was secure was Skinny Legs Bar & Grill.  After the “vacation” pricing in the BVIs, Skinny Legs was a welcome change.  Two-thirds of St. John is National Park and the remaining third seems to have become the home of US citizens seeking an alternate lifestyle.

Although I am usually the only guy over fifty without a ponytail, we enjoy the laissez-faire atmosphere of the small enclave.  Unfortunately, that attitude extends into the anchorage which is cluttered with derelict boats and squatters attached to “private” moorings that leave little room for the occasional transit boat.

After lunch we returned to find that the small fenders we had anchored a good distance behind was actually the “private” mooring for a rather large and dilapidated excursion boat.  Although the captain was courteous, he wanted us to move as much as we wanted out of there.  He started his engine and moved aside on the “private” mooring so that we could pull Motivator’s anchor up. 

Our initial plan after being evicted from Coral Harbor was to scoot over to the west side of the island and into Cruz Bay where we had been before.  However, as we rounded Rams Head on the southeast corner of the island, we spotted an available mooring in Salt Pond Bay.  A quick check of our guidebook ensured it was a National Park Service mooring (see; archived posting, Golden Age Card, March 11, 2013), so we grabbed it.

Sunset from Salt Pond Bay

We found Salt Pond to be lovely.  The well protected little cove with deep water was very quiet.  So, we splurged and stayed two nights paying the park service $7.50 per night for the mooring.

Small visitor behind Motivator

The shore was too rocky for our dinghy, so we swam from the back of Motivator to shore to do a little hiking.  The rocks pictured above would rattle as the surf receded. 

Cruise ship pulling into Charlotte Amalie ahead of Motivator

After enough communing with nature, we left St. John for St. Thomas and the port at Charlotte Amalie.  It is definitely a cruise ship town, but it still retains a certain charm that manages to escape all of the jewelry stores and T-shirt shops.

The Amber Waterfall

Pollie had been waiting all year to visit the amber museum once again, and was very disappointed to find out that it had closed and the collection had been shipped to Germany.  Oh well, she did manage to find a couple of pieces in one of the many gift shops.  

Pirates make good neighbors

When we visit Charlotte Amalie, we like to anchor near the pirate ships’ moorings.  We find that after a hard day of pirating and taking the cruise ship passengers on adventures, the pirates return to shore and the pirate boats are then quiet neighbors.

During the day, after some hurried preparation, the pirates rush off to indoctrinate another load of sun burnt want-a-be pirates.

Our entertainment was more sedate.  We went to the local supermarket for provisions and to Hooters for Internet access.

View from a “dollar safari” at another “dollar safari”

Like many of the islands, St. Thomas has a network of independent busses.  Here they use ¾ ton trucks with five rows of seats mounted where the bed should be.  Driving on the left with left hand drive vehicles allows the curb side to be open for easy ingress/egress and the driver is on the correct side to collect your dollar.

Bus selfie

Evidently there is an official bus system, but like any many places the public system is not reliable.  The “dollar safari” seems to have taken over.  Washington, DC, please take note.

American Yacht Harbor

We rode the “dollar safari” out to Red Hook at the east end of the island.  Approximately 16 years previously we had sat in the same booth using walkie-talkies to direct the cleaning of the charter boat by our son and his cousin.  They had been less than congenial crew mates on our charter so we had them clean the Island Packet sailboat upon return.  We laughed as they could not figure out where we were watching from.

Unfortunately in Charlotte Amalie we had to say goodbye to our friends Jeff and Izzy on our sister ship the Izzy R.  They have been our friends and sometimes travel companions for almost three years.  As we head north back to the states, they have elected to continue cruising the Caribbean.  Fair seas and cheap diesel.

Golden Age Card

Blue Boundaries: No Anchor Zones

Green Boundaries: Mooring Areas

In 1956, Congress established the Virgin Islands National Park.  In 1962, park boundaries were expanded to include 5,650 acres of submerged lands adjacent to the island.  A presidential proclamation created Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument in 2001 and added 12,708 more acres of adjoining submerged land.

In the 1980’s the park became a popular cruising ground for pleasure boaters, too popular.  Anchors crushing coral and anchor chains sweeping and scouring areas caused heavy damage to plants and animals.  So the park’s staff had to devise a plan to preserve the park’s resources for future generations while allowing the opportunity for boaters to enjoy them as well.

Over 200 hundred moorings have been installed around St. John.  Boats 17 to 60 feet are required to use a mooring if available/anchoring is prohibited.  Boats over 60 feet are only allowed to anchor in sand away from the mooring fields.  Anchoring and mooring is prohibited in areas off the southeast corner of the island where the park service has decided that the marine life needs to rebuild.

Use of the moorings during the day is free, however for night use (5:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m.) there is a self registration fee of $15 per night.  Overnight stays are limited to 30 nights in a calendar year and no more than 7 consecutive nights in one bay.  The revenue is used to offset the cost of maintaining the moorings.

Golden Age Passport holders pay half price.

Eco-resort

Francis Bay, St. John, USVI

Two-thirds of the island of St. John, United States Virgin Islands is under the stringent control of the National Park Service in an effort to maintain its pristine appearance.  On the northern shore are a series of bays that are fun to visit when a north swell is not a problem.

Because it is National Park, most of the island is not developed, but occasionally you find property with “grandfathered” uses.  Connected to Francis Bay is Maho Bay, home to, “The US Virgin Island’s renowned eco-resort.”

There are 114 “affordable” tent-cottages that provide the guest rooms.  During high season (November through April) prices range between $165 per night for an “Efficiency Futon,” to $230 per night for the “Full Kitchen Queen.”  Let’s see: 114 tents at an average of $195 per night – hmmm….

Also included are a small store, guest registration facility, restaurant, and a small beach café.  We attempted to try the restaurant, but the surf that evening was too much for a comfortable dinghy landing, and the noseeums were out in force.

Guest tent-cottages and resort facilities are connected by miles of board walks through the jungle.

Because it is built up the side of a hill overlooking the bay, there are also stairs.

A lot of stairs.

Dogs are not allowed at the resort, so there are some very laid back cats.

Showers

Some of the facilities seem a little primitive, but what-the-hey, you are here to commune with nature.

Privacy does not seem to be an issue, as most of the tent-cottages are isolated from the others.

Activities include: swimming, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, hiking, outdoor dining, art classes, glass blowing, yoga, massage, and of course just enjoying the Caribbean sun.

The kids also find other activities at this family friendly resort.

Maho Bay eco-resort has lost its lease on the property and will be closing in May.  Future plans for the site have not been disclosed.  For more information, visit: www.maho.org