BVIs

Our introduction to the Caribbean (20 years ago) was chartering bare boats in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs).  The charter business for both crewed and bare boats is still thriving.  As a result, prices in the BVIs are what cruisers call “vacation prices.”  Moorings, food, beer, fuel - everything is pricey, but the water is beautiful. 

Break from bottom cleaning

Motivator’s crew has found we like stopping at Biras Creek when we are transiting the BVIs.  The moorings are almost reasonable at $25 per night and you are close to Gun Creek where there is customs and immigration for checking in or out.  While in Biras Creek I took advantage of the clear water to do a running gear and bottom cleaning.

How did I end up with a pink snorkel?

After a couple of nights at Biras Creek, we moved on to Norman Island.  Our intent was to have dinner and say good bye to the Willie T. (see: www.williamthornton.com).  But, when we went to make reservations we found the music and demeanor of the crowd was beyond our pay-grade.  We ended up having a pleasant evening with friends on a Canadian boat.

The Fish n’ Lime Inn

(Found a new bar & restaurant)

Our last stop in the BVIs was at the West End.  There we waited a day for some breezy weather to pass by and then we checked out of the BVIs before heading over to the US Virgin Islands.

The “Oh-my-god-a Passage”

St. Martin to the Virgin Islands

The stretch of open water between St. Martin and the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) is marked on some charts as the Sombrero Passage and as the Anegada Passage on others.  Many sailors refer to it as the “Oh-my-god-a Passage.”  The passage has very deep water between the shallow water surrounding the Virgin Islands and St. Martin.  The fast moving current in the passage has a tendency to make the seas “lump up a bit” as it encounters the shallow areas.

 Simpson Bay Bridge

Standard procedure is to exit the St. Martin Lagoon at the 4:00 PM bridge opening, wave good bye to friends on the deck of the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, and anchor outside in Simpson Bay.  The next outbound bridge opening is not until 8:30 AM. 

Sint Maarten Yacht Club

It takes Motivator 10 to 10 ½ hours to do the 81 NM to the BVIs.  The prudent mariner does not run the chance of being forced to enter an unfamiliar harbor after sunset.  So, an early departure (6:00 AM) is warranted.

Besides, it gives you a chance to enjoy another spectacular Caribbean sunset.

Friends we met on the way to the BVIs

We waited 3 weeks for a good weather window to make the passage, and our patience paid off.  The wind for most of the way was less than 15 knots and we had a gentle following sea with only the occasional large swell.

Riding our bow wake

The two pods of dolphins we encountered each had 7 to 8 healthy looking members of various sizes.  One pod had distinctive stripes while the other had freckles.  Each pod stayed with us for about 10 to 15 minutes.  Pollie thinks they liked us because she was on the bow waving and talking to them.  I think it was the Dire Straits album I was playing.

Motivator in Biras Creek, BVIs

While we enjoyed our time in Sint Maarten, we were ready for the quiet of Biras Creek.

Full Moon Party

Moon Rise Over Fire Sculptures

Aragorn’s Studio, an arts center in Trellis Bay, B.V.I., along with restaurants and bars lining the beach near the Beef Island Airport put on 12 Full Moon Parties each year.

Knot Bad anchored over a charter boat’s anchor

Probably 200 to 250 boats were tightly moored or anchored in Trellis bay for the event.

Beach Fire Ball

The parties are billed as, “The B.V.I.’s top culture event of the month.”

Bill, JoAnne, Izzy, Jeff, Mo, and Pollie

Part of Grenada, Class of 2012

It was also a great opportunity to catch up with cruiser friends.

Too much help lighting the fire sculptures

The party is kicked off by the lighting of the fire sculptures.

 Filled with cardboard and wood, the sculptures burst into flames and burn for a long time.

Kodak Moment

The flaming sculptures with sparks flying and the anchor lights in the background brought everyone’s camera out.

Next we were treated to shadow dancers behind an opaque moon on the roof.

Raised by a crane, the shadow dancers became sky dancers.

No Caribbean party would be complete without the appearance of the Moko Jumbi dancers.

Morning After

Trellis Bay had changed since the last time we were there (15 years ago).  The Loose Mongoose Café was still there, albeit with a new paint job, and the little mini-mart seemed to have a better selection.  There were a couple of new restaurants, but the nicest addition was Aragorn’s Studio, an outlet for local artists and locally grown food.  Trellis bay has improved, but managed to keep its funky nature.  For more information see: www.aragornsstudio.com.